Meringue

The first time I ate a pavlova was after a Sunday roast lunch. I still remember the crispy, slightly chewy exterior and a soft mallowy centre, topped with softly whipped cream just about holding its shape and a mountain of macerated strawberries cascading down. It was delicious and I think I had double portions, even after a generous roast lunch. Well, I was a teenager then and could eat for England. Did you know the pavlova was named after a Russian ballet dancer, Anna Pavlova, in honour of her tour to New Zealand and Australia in the 1920s?

In Chinese cooking we don’t use egg whites as much. We might use it sparingly to coat some thinly sliced chicken breasts before “passing the oil” and then add to a stir fry, or in a typical Hong Kong style dessert would be to steam the egg whites mixed with milk (or almond milk) and rock sugar. This wobbly dessert with the texture of velvety custard and delicate silken tofu is thought to contribute to a smooth and alabaster like complexion, which is much desired and aspired by the local women, whereas here in the west, we want to have a tan! Go figure….

Making meringue is simple but one must observe the rules of engagement. As you separate the egg whites and egg yolks, you must ensure not even a speck of yolk is in the whites, because this will stop the whites from whisking, it won’t thicken no matter what you do. The same with the equipment you use: the bowl AND the whisk, you must make sure they are squeaky clean, best to wash them in soapy water, rinse and dry thoroughly before you start even separating the eggs. A basic recipe is double the amount of sugar to the egg whites. What I normally do is to weigh the egg whites, then multiply the sugar (caster please!) by two. If you are making the meringue for a pavlova, I would recommend a teaspoon of white wine vinegar and a teaspoon of cornflour. The vinegar or cream of tartar (if using the latter, literally a pinch per egg white), are acidic and this stabilises the foam. The cornflour is where the magic forms, that gives the interior of the meringue mallowy.

Always start at low speed on the electric whisk, then increase the speed as the egg whites begin to foam. Do not add any sugar before the egg whites are stiff, which really means when you lift off the whites, the peak on the whisk stands tall without bending. When you add the sugar, add it gradually, one after each addition has been whisked in. Stop when the meringue is glossy and very stiff. You can rub a little meringue between your thumb and index finger, it should not be grainy. Follow the recipe by piling it on silicone paper or mat (also free of grease), not greaseproof paper as the meringue will stick to it after cooking. Like my teacher at Leiths used to say, “use the wrong paper and there will be tears”! Bake in a low oven 110c, no higher than the middle rack for an hour or 1.5 hours depending on size. It is done when they will peel easily and cleanly from the paper/mat and feel firm to the touch on the underside.

This is a basic method and “faff free” technique for homemade meringue. French macaron is another beast as the meringue requires a hot sugar syrup, ground almonds, speed and deft and a few other nuances, but the principles of the egg whites, equipment and rules still apply.

Being confident in making a basic meringue will help you achieve a number of desserts and cake making. Have a go and soon you will be making chocolate mousse, souffles, Angel food cake and alike.